Exploring New Zealand's South Island: The Full Story

Wildlife encounters, wine tasting, and wisdom from locals and fellow travelers

Welcome to recap #2! Thanks for sticking with us. We just got to Borneo this morning after spending a week road-tripping around Sydney (in a sedan, thankfully). This will be our final newsletter on New Zealand, filling in the gaps of our camper van journey across the unforgettable South Island. In case you missed our other South Island-related newsletters, we've already shared our favorite hikes, van life reflections, and penguin encounters. Our Sydney-area recap will come next week, followed by Borneo next weekend-ish. Given our last 24 hours here, I’d say you’re in for a treat. Anyway, on to the show.

Part One: Mount Cook/Aoraki National Park

Our first day on the South Island was relatively uneventful. First, we picked up our camper van and hit the road. That first night was a "practice run" at a campsite as we figured out our new compact living situation.

The journey truly began when we reached Mount Cook/Aoraki National Park, the only time during our New Zealand stay that we camped directly inside a national park. For two nights, we were surrounded by mountains, glaciers, and fellow van-lifers.

On day one we tackled the popular Hooker Valley Track, timing our hike perfectly as the tour buses were leaving the park for the day. As a result, we had this famous trail almost entirely to ourselves, returning as the sun began to set over the glacial lake. The next day, we conquered the challenging Mueller Hut Track (covered previously).

Hooker Valley Track at sundown

Our national park camping experience came with some trade-offs. Without power hookups, we faced our first truly cold night in the van and introduced ourselves to "wilderness wipes" by Sea to Summit—a poor substitute for showers, but better than nothing after sweaty hikes.

One highlight was the night sky. Far from light pollution, the stars appeared in numbers and clarity that neither of us had experienced before. We'd soon learn this was quite common on the South Island, but that first night of stars at Mount Cook was the most amazing.

Part Two: Twizel to Wānaka

Leaving Mount Cook, we headed toward Wānaka, but an unplanned stop along the way became one of our trip highlights. In the small town of Twizel, we discovered High Country Salmon—a salmon fishery offering lake-to-plate dining and a shop selling fresh filets. I was admittedly skeptical, but Claire insisted, and boy did it pay off.

We tried their salmon sampler in the café and immediately knew we needed more. We left with an unsliced filet of smoked salmon (which we tried the next morning) and a fresh filet to cook later in our van—a decision that would give us one of our favorite meals of the entire New Zealand journey.

Arriving in Wānaka, we gave our hiking legs a rest and focused on another New Zealand specialty: wine. We visited Aitken's Folly Vineyard and Paddon's Paddock, enjoying local Pinot Noirs with lake views. Between tastings, we explored the town and visited the famous Wānaka Tree, which was honestly a bit underwhelming since the lake had receded, leaving the normally photogenic "tree in the middle of the lake" looking more like a "tree near some water."

At our Lake Hawea campsite, we had a memorable late-night wildlife encounter—a cute little hedgehog slowly making its way across the path. We spent about 15 minutes watching it waddle along. The next day, we learned that hedgehogs are actually considered one of New Zealand's most underrated predators—an invasive species that locals are encouraged to eliminate due to their impact on native birds and lizards. This was our first real glimpse into New Zealand's complex relationship with introduced species.

Our Wānaka stay also included our sunrise hike up Roy's Peak (covered previously) and our first full rest day of the trip. We tried the "secret" sauna at our campsite, alternating between the sauna's heat and the freezing lake water. After weeks of hiking, it was much needed.

That evening, we cooked the High Country Salmon filet in our tiny van kitchen. It was, without exaggeration, the best salmon either of us has ever tasted—buttery, fresh, and so good we went back for more at the end of the trip.

Part Three: Oamaru

While we've already shared our blue penguin adventure in Oamaru, we didn't mention a conversation we had at the local New World grocery store.

When we asked an employee where we might find Caesar salad kits, he replied with a laugh, "We don't really eat those here. You must be from North America." This kicked off a chat about food quality and our travel plans. Caesar dressing is pretty unhealthy and just not appealing to people here. When we mentioned our recent salmon experience, he nodded knowingly, explaining that New Zealand salmon is widely considered the best in the world.

He shared hiking recommendations (including the Gertrude Saddle hike that we ended up doing) and even sought us out a second time, having thought of another trail we might enjoy after our conversation had ended.

This friendly interaction opened our eyes to another cultural insight: in New Zealand and Australia, taking a gap year or career break—what locals call an "OE" (overseas experience)—is completely normal. Our year-long adventure, which feels somewhat bold back home, is standard practice here.

He also shared that his brother, stationed in Antarctica, struggled when assigned to the American base. The contrast between American and New Zealand food quality apparently affected his overall wellness—another perspective on the food differences we'd been noticing.

Looking out into Friendly Bay, in the heart of Oamaru

Part Four: Queenstown

Our Queenstown visit coincided with a special treat—our friend Amy joined us! She had recently started a new job with partners in Australia and New Zealand, and her first business trip perfectly overlapped with our adventure. She flew down from Auckland for the weekend, joining us for a weekend of van life.

Queenstown, known as the adventure capital of the world, was our first time in an actual city since picking up the van in Christchurch. After weeks in remote campgrounds, the energy of a city—even a small one—was refreshing. We hiked Ben Lomond (covered previously), enjoyed sunset by the lake while a piano player performed emotional original compositions, and even stumbled upon a silent disco in the streets.

One Queenstown institution we couldn't miss was Fergburger. When we first arrived, we noticed a massive line stretching down the block. When Claire asked what everyone was waiting for, they replied, "Fergburger—the best burger in town." Later, Amy mentioned meeting someone who claimed Fergburger was their favorite place in all of New Zealand.

Taking these as signs, we joined the line after our Ben Lomond hike. The inventive, delicious burgers lived up to the hype—the perfect post-hike reward. We later discovered that "Ferg" runs a small empire in Queenstown: Fergburger, Fergbaker (pie shop), Mrs. Ferg (gelato), and Ferg's Bar.

Having Amy join us was so fun, and we’re very excited to connect with more friends throughout our year of travel.

Part Five: Milford Sound

Our final destination was Milford Sound, a five-hour drive from Queenstown. We'd heard countless people describe it as New Zealand's most spectacular natural wonder, and it lived up to every word. The sheer cliffs rising from dark waters and waterfalls created one of the most beautiful landscapes either of us had ever seen.

We stayed at Milford Sound Lodge—the only accommodation option in the area and notoriously difficult to book. Claire managed to find the only available night for a camper van site when she booked a few weeks prior. Upon arrival, we joined a nature walk led by a guide from the lodge, a Brazilian who had come to New Zealand seven years earlier hoping to spot a wild Kiwi bird, and never left. Most of the staff were international travelers who chose to live full-time in this remote paradise, working in hospitality to fund their adventures in the area.

The nature walk connected many dots from our entire New Zealand experience, with our guide explaining more about invasive species, why many New Zealand birds lost their ability to fly (lack of natural mammal predators), and the lodge's unique work schedule (nine days on, five days off) that allows staff to take extended adventures into the surrounding wilderness.

Milford Sound Lodge - the best campsite we stayed in

The following day, we combined a hike on the famous Milford Track with a nature cruise through the sound. While nature cruises in tourist destinations often feel overpriced, this experience was truly amazing.

On the boat, we struck up a conversation with an older woman from Sacramento who was visiting New Zealand with a tour group en route to a diving expedition in the Solomon Islands. She shared stories of her lifetime of adventures—budget-friendly travels including riding mail planes to Hong Kong in her youth and drying underwear on her backpack to save on laundry costs. She was living proof that with some scrappiness, travel is far more accessible than people realize.

We ended our conversation sharing a beer—coincidentally our second shared drink with an older solo female traveler during our South Island journey (first one recapped in the Oamaru/penguin newsletter).

Takeaways

Conservation & Respect for Nature

From penguin protection in Oamaru to the careful management of hiking trails and the vigilance about invasive species, New Zealand consistently demonstrated its commitment to preserving its natural heritage. Locals and tourists alike seemed to share a deep reverence for the landscape—very different from what we’re accustomed to in the US.

Food Quality

The overall quality of food in New Zealand also surpassed what we're used to back home. From roadside salmon fisheries to small meat pie shops to nice restaurants, everything emphasized quality, local ingredients, and transparent sourcing.

Interestingly, the best meal of our entire trip wasn't from any restaurant but rather the High Country Salmon filet I cooked in our tiny van kitchen on our way back to Christchurch (our second visit there), paired with simple fried rice and eggs. Chef's kiss!

Feeling Our Best

The combination of quality food, daily physical activity, abundant fresh air, and minimal screen time left us feeling incredible by the end of our time in New Zealand. Though we often went days without proper showers and slept in a cramped van, we both felt healthier than we had in years.

Next Time in New Zealand

While we covered significant ground in three weeks, there's so much more we want to experience when we inevitably return to the South Island:

• Milford Sound Part Two: Return to stay in one of the chalets at Milford Sound Lodge and take a helicopter ride over this breathtaking landscape

• Great Walks: Experience one of New Zealand's famous multi-day hikes with overnight stays in backcountry huts

• Tuatara Hunting: David's lizard enthusiasm has him determined to spot a tuatara, the ancient reptile that's technically not a lizard but a living fossil descended from dinosaur-era creatures

• Franz Josef Glacier: Weather prevented us from visiting, but the helicopter landing and glacier hiking experience remains high on our list

• Central Otago Rail Trail: Claire's keen to experience this famous long-distance bike route, which has inspired similar trails throughout the country

• Northern South Island: We didn't make it to Abel Tasman or Nelson, areas known for their stunning coastal scenery and arts scene

Our South Island adventure provided the perfect blend of challenge, beauty, and unexpected moments. Though we've since been to Australia and are now in Borneo, a piece of our hearts remains in New Zealand—a country that consistently exceeded our already high expectations with its natural wonders, quality of life, and warmth of its people. What a perfect way to start the trip.

Until next time, New Zealand!