Our Five Most Epic Hikes in New Zealand

Our favorite trails and the stories behind our 24,000 feet of climbing

Hello from Sydney, Australia! We just arrived here this morning after wrapping up our three weeks in New Zealand and are excited to see Dua Lipa tomorrow night (these tickets were our second year-of-travel purchase after our one-way to New Zealand). After 40+ hours of driving, we've memorized her entire Radical Optimism album—with End of an Era as our favorite.

Today’s piece focuses on what made our Kiwi adventure special: the hiking. Over three weeks, we conquered 12 hikes across both islands, accumulating 24,000+ feet of elevation gain and spending nearly 50 hours on the trails. Of all these adventures, five stood out, pushing our limits and rewarding us with unforgettable views.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Tongariro National Park

Distance: 13.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 2,800 feet
Duration: 7 hours

Our first significant hike, and widely considered to be the best day hike in all of New Zealand, took us through an otherworldly volcanic landscape. This point-to-point trail required a shuttle bus to take us from the parking lot at the end point back to the start point so we could end at our car—a crucial planning detail for anyone attempting this hike.

The journey began in a rocky, Mars-esque landscape. We then became shrouded in fog as we ascended the volcano. Unlike our clear view into Mount Villarica's crater when we last hiked a volcano in Chile in November, the Tongariro crater remained hidden in clouds. The descent featured a steep path of loose volcanic sand that had many hikers (including Claire) sliding and tumbling to shared laughter. After this tricky section, we reached a sulfuric lake just as the clouds began to lift, revealing the iconic view at the perfect moment.

This was one of the more crowded trails we tackled, but watching a father photographing his young daughter against the dramatic landscape reminded us of hiking's universal appeal.

Mueller Hut Route, Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park

Distance: 6 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,500 feet
Duration: 7 hours

Don't let the shorter distance fool you. The first half of this hike was essentially nature’s StairMaster—two hours straight of climbing steps under constant sun. As we climbed higher, we saw our first panoramic views of the South Island's enormous mountains and glaciers—a scale entirely different from the North Island landscapes. After reaching Sealy Tarns (a lookout point) for lunch, we tackled another two hours of steep incline to the iconic red Mueller Hut.

Our descent featured an impromptu musical moment: at one point, I mentioned that we were zooming down the hill, then Claire sang "zoom zoom zoom zoom" and a passing hiker immediately continued with "I want you in my room," leading to trail-wide laughter (reference video if you’re confused). This started our hiking soundtrack tradition, which continued throughout our trip.

Roys Peak Track, Wānaka

Distance: 9.8 miles
Elevation Gain: 4,200 feet
Duration: 5 hours

Roys Peak required a 3:00 AM wake-up call, with boots on the trail by 4:30 AM. The pre-dawn start kept us cooler during the consistently steep climb and hid the mountain's true height until we were well on our way.

Reaching the summit just before sunrise alongside dozens of other early risers created a unique shared experience. As light broke over Lake Wānaka and the surrounding mountains, everyone fell silent in appreciation.

The strangest moment came when we witnessed a hiker chasing a terrified sheep while his partner recorded—a stark contrast to the respect we've observed from Kiwis and tourists toward the land and wildlife. Despite this bizarre moment, the breathtaking views made every step worthwhile.

Ben Lomond Track, Queenstown

Distance: 7 miles (with a gondola ride saving us from another 2 hours)
Elevation Gain: 3,300 feet (4,300 feet excluding the gondola)
Duration: 6 hours

Ben Lomond was special because we shared it with Amy, Claire's best friend from college, with whom I’ve also grown close during our time together in NYC. Starting with the Queenstown gondola, we enjoyed a cloudy and cool day for most of the steady incline—until the final mile's steep 1,000-foot climb.

Three memorable moments stood out: I finally spotted my first New Zealand lizards (but failed to catch one); we enjoyed our best hiking sandwiches to date (upgraded with pesto and hummus); and we chatted with a fellow hiker who turned out to work for Survivor (yes, the show) in Fiji. Super cool.

The 360-degree view from the top showcasing Queenstown and the Remarkables range made it obvious why this one is so popular. For Claire, it was meaningful to share this experience with Amy, whose companionship on her first major hike outside of the US at Norway's Trolltunga sparked the hiking passion that now shapes our travel choices.

Gertrude Saddle Track, Milford Sound

Distance: 5 miles
Elevation Gain: 2,000 feet
Duration: 4.5 hours
Difficulty Rating: Double black diamond

Our final significant hike was the shortest but most technically challenging. Beginning in fog, the clouds gradually parted to reveal spectacular Milford Sound views. The final mile required actual rock climbing with safety chains, passing warning signs about past fatalities (this hike shouldn’t be attempted in wet weather).

For me, without technical climbing experience, it was intimidating. Claire, with Half Dome and related experience, felt more at ease. We discovered this hike through recommendations from a grocery store employee (more on this encounter in the next newsletter) and a nature guide, and when we lucked into an extra night at the sought-after Milford Sound Lodge campsite, it felt like the right time to attempt it.

Marked as a double black diamond (ski-equivalent rating), it was certainly the most advanced hike I've ever completed.

Trail Reflections

Looking back, several observations stand out:

• New Zealand truly deserves its reputation as a hiker's paradise.

• We were impressed by how New Zealand’s Department of Conservation (DOC) prioritizes both environmental protection and Māori cultural recognition—especially notable given recent cuts to the National Park Service in the US.

• Though we tackled many famous day hikes, we've only scratched the surface. The country's multi-day Great Walks remain on our bucket list.

• These hikes were perfect preparation for upcoming adventures later this year—the Inca Trail in June, Kilimanjaro in September, and Patagonia next January. (Open invitation to friends who want to join!)

• I did some hiking when living in San Francisco, but our relationship definitely started with it being more of Claire’s thing. I certainly never traveled specifically to hike before meeting her. Yet, even though after every major hike I collapse and declare, "I'm so happy I just completed my final hike"—we both know that statement is entirely untrue. I’ve grown to love everything about it.

Next week, we’ll be publishing two final pieces on New Zealand: stories and reflections from two weeks of van life, and then our overall review of the South Island (our second location review following our piece on the North Island).

Spoiler alert: The South Island exceeded our expectations and we absolutely want to go back. Did you notice that 4 of the 5 hikes above were on the South Island? Until next time!