CDMX and San Miguel: A Delicious Detour

A spontaneous week featuring top-tier meals, cobblestone streets, unsolicited real estate pitches, and a shower of good luck (in the form of bird poop)

After wrapping up our wedding planning trip in Guatemala, we had an extra week before heading to California for Dan and Emma’s wedding in the Bay Area. The only thing we booked in advance was a flight to the Bay out of Mexico City, so we at least knew that we had to make our way north from Antigua and would probably spend the time in between in Mexico.

One morning in Guatemala, I said to Claire, “I need to go to a show. I’m craving live music.” Concerts have always been part of our routine back home, but they’re tough to line up while traveling. So far, we’d only managed one: Dua Lipa in Sydney (which we built an entire week around). That same day, Claire’s friend Erica texted to say she’d be in Mexico for the next few weeks.

And just like that, the itinerary came together. Two days in CDMX for a concert, then with Erica we’d spend a few days somewhere new and finish up with two more days back in the city.

Our chosen new destination: San Miguel de Allende

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Round One in CDMX: Al Pastor and All Day I Dream

We landed in Mexico City with two goals: eat well and go to a concert.

Our first stop was El Huequito (specifically this location under the highway in Condesa), my favorite al pastor spot. Their Pastor Especial is a giant mound of pork you turn into 6 to 8 tacos. I first came here during our anniversary trip in October 2023, when I arrived a day before Claire. This was my third visit, and yes, it still holds up.

Can’t put a price on this elite pile of pork

We also explored three markets that were new to us:

• Mercado de Jamaica, the super affordable flower market we wish existed in the US

• Mercado de la Merced, a food market that gave me stomach issues

• El Bazaar Sábado, a Saturday art market in San Ángel, where we browsed some incredible local art

The main event was the concert: All Day I Dream, a house and techno show headlined by Lee Burridge. It took place at a beautifully restored hacienda about 40 minutes from the city center, with warm lights, open skies, and a kind crowd. Most people there seemed to be locals. The music was great, the Modelos were flowing, and the vibe was super chill.

Rave girlies at All Day I Dream

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San Miguel de Allende: The Most Beautiful Town We’ve Seen Yet

From Mexico City, we took a bus to San Miguel de Allende and met up with our friend Erica (Claire’s travel buddy from Hawaii in 2021, now on their seventh country together). Erica arrived a day later, so we had time to explore the town on our own first.

We stumbled into Agavia 115 and ended up having one of the best meals of the trip. The mole was made from a family recipe dating back five generations, and the brisket tacos were slow-cooked for 24 hours and completely unforgettable. It became one of only six meals so far that we’ve added to our “notable meals of the year” list.

Could have eaten one hundred of these brisket tacos

San Miguel is sometimes called the “jewel box of Mexico,” and it absolutely lived up to the nickname. We hadn’t done much research, so we were especially surprised by just how beautiful and colorful the city was. From the cobblestone streets to vividly colored walls, we were in awe. After dinner, we wandered into the main square, where a stunning church towers over the plaza and mojigangas (giant, colorful papier-mâché puppets) danced around. It felt like a festival, even though it was just a regular night.

Once Erica arrived (along with her dogs, Veda and Baxter), we wandered the city, explored a warehouse-sized art complex, and rotated between rooftops at sunset. Tunki rooftop bar stood out. It was started by the owners of Handshake Speakeasy in Mexico City, currently ranked the number one bar in the world.

We did have a bit of a snafu between a heat wave and a broken AC unit (ironically, the repair guy had left town to escape the heat himself). Our Airbnb host kindly moved us into another unit in the same building, so it worked out fine.

A few standout moments:

• San Miguel is shockingly dog-friendly, including the art complex, which welcomed Veda and Baxter everywhere.

• A man offered to take our photo on the street, then immediately launched into a real estate pitch. He told us we should get out of the U.S. as soon as possible, that San Miguel is “the fruit basket of the Americas,” and that he moved there from Colorado 11 years ago and never looked back.

Ex-pat art critic Veda at la Fabrica de Aurora

And then there was the car. Erica had rented one because of the dogs, and we parked it on the street during our two-day stay. When we returned, it was fully caked in bird poop. We’re talking top-to-bottom, windshield-to-wheel-level coverage. Several friends independently described it as looking like a Jackson Pollock. I often jokingly say to Claire, “I’ve never seen anything like it,” and this was the first time I couldn’t have meant it more literally.

I’ve heard that bird poop brings good luck, and with this showing, we’re about to have enough luck to last a few lifetimes.

¡Ay, dios mio!

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Back in CDMX: A Lot More Food

Back in Mexico City, now with Erica and the dogs, we grabbed a last-minute reservation at Kill Bill, a 16-course omakase in Roma Norte. It had a mix of raw and cooked seafood, was easily one of our favorite meals of the year, and yes, it made it onto our “notable meals” list.

But David, aren’t you guys on a budget? Omakase???

Definitely a splurge, but a worthwhile one. We’ve already agreed we’re on a break with omakase until we’re employed (excluding our upcoming month in Japan).

Run, don’t walk, to Kill Bill in Mexico City. On par with the best New York omakases.

On our final day, we grabbed lunch at Contramar. It was amazing when we went on our first trip, and while it didn’t make our notable meals list, it still lived up to our memories (especially the tuna tostadas). In the evening, we wrapped up our time in Mexico with a proper taco crawl, hitting up both street stands and the worthy-of-its-fame Taquería Orinoco. CDMX remains the most elite food city either of us has been to.

A delicious meal at Orinoco

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Reflections

This was only our second trip to Mexico together, but it’s become one of our favorite countries. The food, the pace, the energy… it’s hard not to fall for it. We’ll be back, probably sooner than we expect.

We also realized that Mexico now holds the record for most meals added to our “notable meals” list this year. Two in one week: Agavia 115 in San Miguel and Kill Bill in Mexico City. No other country has pulled that off (yet). Stay tuned for our full list; we may share a sneak peek at our 6-month mark.

It was also a great way to spend time with Erica and reset between two weddings. Colombia is next.

¡Hasta luego!